Having chosen the daunting Kalalau trail as our first backpacking experience together; I felt we were adequately prepared. Even before the trip, having read a few blogs and watched a few YouTube videos I felt as if we were appropriately prepared, and organized for the trek. With only the shared experience of having camped half a dozen times or more together in various parts of the Western United States and various islands in Hawaii. It was Ryan’s very first time backpacking.
Before the trail begins there's a warning/recommendation that says the trek is for experienced in shape backpackers only. The 11 mile trail to Kalalau valley is filled with steep climbs, sharp drop offs, rivers, and stream crossings where flashfloods happen without warning. The majority of the trail is little more than a narrow goat path. Often with overgrown jungle plants covering portions of it. The terrain is not the only test, the variables in temperature and weather only add additional layers to the challenge. As hikers wind their way from sun exposed outcroppings that will left us drenched in sweat, to the cool often damp mosquito filled forest valleys, with variables such as rain and high winds. The recommendation to have experience trekking in these conditions is not without cause. Starting early is recommended as the pace of the trail is slow; we ended up hiking a mile per hour starting at 7AM and getting to camp about an hour before sunset at 6PM. We woke up at 5:30 in the hostel setting our alarms to get on the road and pass the construction zone as soon as possible, in order o keep to the early recommended start time. On our trip in June it was dry with no direct rainfall falling on the trail on the way in, with only some light rain hiking out. Between the first and the second two days the amount of flow coming from the streams and river crossing expanded to a noticeably higher volume. Making the easy stream crossing turn into real obstacles. The sights were awe inspiring along the trail, from wildflowers growing around every turn, to the ancient jagged ridgelines sometimes hidden in the clouds while other times towering over the trail. The contrast of greens, sandy browns, lava rock black, and the emerald blue ocean are some of the most beautiful sights in the world. The 2.5 day trip was one of the most physically and mentally challenging trips I have ever taken. Made more challenging because we significantly underestimated the amount/type of food to bring. Being a primarily animal based eater to heal gut issues. I mostly brought canned chicken, sardines, and tuna. Very high quality protein foods, but not the best fuel for an endurance trip. Ryan too brought lots of canned chicken, but also had other more suitable carbohydrate derived foods. Before leaving the hostel the night before Ryan befriended some of the local residents at the makeshift hostel bar. Having told them about leaving for the Kalalau trail in the morning they exchanged stories and offered advice. One transgender women in particular told of all the abundance the trail had to offer, hinting that there would be abundant fruit all along the trail and in the valley. Hoping for the best we found out along the way there were many fruiting plants from passion fruit, wild coffee, sapote to kukui nuts. The problem was that none of the fruits were ripe. Either the season had passed or the fruits were still in the ripening stage. Turning the potential paradise into a food desert. Realizing fairly quickly our mistake we immediately started to ration food knowing we had no other choice if we wanted to complete the trek. We did have large amounts of electrolytes with us allowing us to supplement water for food. The heat of the first day was so intense we each drank at least 100 ounces each. The only way we were able to consume so much water is because we brought the most important pieces of equipment to bring on the trail. A water filter, as not even the strongest hiker would be able to tote in and carry the amount of water needed to complete the trek.
As stated before, the trek was tough even at the start of the trail on the first two miles to Hanakapi’ai beach; the steep terrain starts right away. Once passed the beach each mile encompassed 1-2 valleys and an outcropping. At each outcropping was a drop dead gorgeous view of the entire coastline, every single one just as photo worthy and awe inspiring as the last. However, as the day wore on all we wanted to see was the coastline getting smaller and smaller. At each mile marker there was a number carved into a rock spray painted orange to let hikers know how far along they were. Between mile seven and eight is a notorious section called Crawlers Ledge, an exposed ledge on lava rock on the side of a cliff with a narrow path and a sheer drop off. One misstep will lead to death. One of the most dangerous portions of the Kalalau trail, made more treacherous by the exhaustion most hikers feel by the time they reach this section. We were lucky in that there was no recent rain, but were still very alert as we crossed the ledge. After crossing we were met by a forceful wind that nearly blew us off the outcropping and we had to crawl up to continue. Once we reached mile eight the lack of food and energy really started to impact my ability to hike. My legs were starting to give out and staying on pace to make it to the beach before nightfall was in jeopardy. We began taking more breaks unable to eat anymore of our rationed food. As we crawled up another of the endless slopes next to a stream we saw a zip lock gallon bag labeled Food/Nutrition and inside was a vegan protein bar made from processed soy and full of sugar and caffeine. As soon as we realized this was food, we both looked at each other like an angel had handed us the protein bar and split it in half. Energy started to flood back into our bodies within minutes giving us both the energy we needed to finish the day.
Along the way we passed by many different types of hikers, some much older in their 60’s, many Europeans, and many who were endurance athletes. One pair was an adult son and father whom decided to hike in and out in the same day. A feat of strength and endurance that would be challenging for a young man let alone a man in his 50’s.
As we reached the last outcropping we saw the sacred place all the hikers had told us about, Kalalau Valley. The very image of a tropical paradise. I did not think it was possible to see any sights more beautiful than the ones we had already seen on the journey, but looking upon Kalalau Valley took my breath away. The lush green forest, surrounded by more jagged ridgelines, the beautiful white sand beach and emerald water was the very definition of paradise. We stopped to take in the view and the relief that we had actually accomplished the first half of the trip. With about 1 mile left to the beach we continued on. Walking through forest, and coastal grassland, before making it to the final river crossing. Ironically the toughest crossing of them all. There were others at the river and when they saw us they welcomed us with warm smiles, all congratulating us on a great job for making it. There was an unspoken air that it took a large amount of strength, grit, and radical self reliance to make it as far as we had. There was an electric joy in the air as many of the other hikers revealed in the river, drinking and socializing. Meanwhile we still had to cross the river, with no obvious crossing spots like the others streams and rivers had. Ryan took a stab at crossing first only to slip and fall in the water and lose one of our large water bottles. Knowing that was a key to our success hiking, I immediately ran after the bottle chasing it down the river with all my gear on, calling on the aid of the nearest person to help me retrieve it before it flowed out to sea. Luckily the river had many twists and turns and the water bottle became stuck and easily retrievable. I thanked my friendly helper, and hiked back up the river to figure out my own crossing. I ended up scooting across the boulders on my butt, getting my sleeping bag soaked in the process.
Once across, the beach was right around the corner. There were beach spots and forest spots, most already claimed by other backpackers. While looking for a spot, we stopped and spoke to a man hanging out on the path sitting comfortably in a camping chair smoking a cigar. He pointed us in the right direction. Truly exhausted, I found a spot that looked open and like a good camping spot. We set our stuff down and went in search of the waterfall we were told about, to shower and clean up. Walking down the path there were two men sitting at a little old coffee shack who waved at us and said hi, we instinctively waved and said hey back not thinking much of the interaction. The waterfall was one out of a movie. It was a tall column of flowing fresh cold water off of a stone wall into a shallow rock pool. Observing others, there was a piece of PVC left for the purpose of showering, which we each used to blast the refreshing cold clean water on our sweaty, smelly, exhausted bodies.
We pitched our tent and set up camp, and then headed over to the friendly well provisioned strangers. Upon helping them set up a massive bonfire on the beach, we learned they were local Hawaiians with ancestry coming directly out of Kalalau Valley. They had been coming to the valley by boat for the past two years to reconnect with their heritage and help the effort to clean up and restore the valley. Including clearing out the lawless people whom had illegally decided to create commune communities in the valley. They told us they had been finding the communities possessions and had been burning them in an effort to get them to leave. We learned that before they had begun to do this the friendly welcoming atmosphere we encountered upon hiking into the valley was non existent, to the point of hostile to the visitors of the valley. In the process they also discovered the records of their family's parcel of land in the valley. Without being told where the land was one of the daughters was drawn to the correct location. Upon finding her families land she discovered the very birthing stone where her grandmother was born. The passion and emotion in her voice as she told the story was magnetizing, and heartbreaking. Then to add to it, to also hear that they had found a garden had been planted upon the sacred site. Understanding the pain, passion, and deep respect they feel for their culture, people, and sacred sites helped us to really understand the difficult position the Hawaiians were placed in when the United States government took over their land, and that Hawaii as a state is really an illusion as Hawaiians consider their land their own. As we listened we gratefully ate smoked sheep that we were offered. We continued to listen to their stories, learning that the very first Polynesians whom became the first Hawaiians landed very close to the valley and that it was once a flourishing population of people. As the night wore on we told them of our plan and they again graciously offered for us to stay longer, inviting us to go on a goat hunt with them in the morning.
Once across, the beach was right around the corner. There were beach spots and forest spots, most already claimed by other backpackers. While looking for a spot, we stopped and spoke to a man hanging out on the path sitting comfortably in a camping chair smoking a cigar. He pointed us in the right direction. Truly exhausted, I found a spot that looked open and like a good camping spot. We set our stuff down and went in search of the waterfall we were told about, to shower and clean up. Walking down the path there were two men sitting at a little old coffee shack who waved at us and said hi, we instinctively waved and said hey back not thinking much of the interaction. The waterfall was one out of a movie. It was a tall column of flowing fresh cold water off of a stone wall into a shallow rock pool. Observing others, there was a piece of PVC left for the purpose of showering, which we each used to blast the refreshing cold clean water on our sweaty, smelly, exhausted bodies.
Feeling completely revived we headed back to our backpacks. The same guys who said hello came up to us letting us know we had put our supplies in a sacred Hawaiian cultural location. They asked us if we could relocate. Embarrassed as it was my suggestion to camp in that spot in the first place, I immediately went to move to a new spot. Seeing that we were respecting their wishes they invited us to have dinner with them. Starving and expecting to have to wake up early to begin the 11 mile trek all over again we jumped at the offer.
We pitched our tent and set up camp, and then headed over to the friendly well provisioned strangers. Upon helping them set up a massive bonfire on the beach, we learned they were local Hawaiians with ancestry coming directly out of Kalalau Valley. They had been coming to the valley by boat for the past two years to reconnect with their heritage and help the effort to clean up and restore the valley. Including clearing out the lawless people whom had illegally decided to create commune communities in the valley. They told us they had been finding the communities possessions and had been burning them in an effort to get them to leave. We learned that before they had begun to do this the friendly welcoming atmosphere we encountered upon hiking into the valley was non existent, to the point of hostile to the visitors of the valley. In the process they also discovered the records of their family's parcel of land in the valley. Without being told where the land was one of the daughters was drawn to the correct location. Upon finding her families land she discovered the very birthing stone where her grandmother was born. The passion and emotion in her voice as she told the story was magnetizing, and heartbreaking. Then to add to it, to also hear that they had found a garden had been planted upon the sacred site. Understanding the pain, passion, and deep respect they feel for their culture, people, and sacred sites helped us to really understand the difficult position the Hawaiians were placed in when the United States government took over their land, and that Hawaii as a state is really an illusion as Hawaiians consider their land their own. As we listened we gratefully ate smoked sheep that we were offered. We continued to listen to their stories, learning that the very first Polynesians whom became the first Hawaiians landed very close to the valley and that it was once a flourishing population of people. As the night wore on we told them of our plan and they again graciously offered for us to stay longer, inviting us to go on a goat hunt with them in the morning.
In the morning we shared breakfast together, and got to know our friends better. Learning one of the group; the cigar smoking man from the day before was a layer and one of the innovators on the island being one of the people responsible for bringing off grid solar to Kauai. He told of some of his stories of some of the characters in his life, and educated us on the housing and agriculture laws on the island. We also learned that our new friends owned and operated the only animal sanctuary on the island, started to keep potentially invasive species from being released on the island. As we chatted we missed out on the action of the goat hunt. A goat was nonetheless brought back to camp to be processed. It was both mine and Ryan's first time watching an animal be processed, and we were enthralled in the entire process. As the goat was processed the entire processing was explained to us, and the reason why each step important to processing the meat. Grateful for our chance encounter and the new friends we made. We had to get back on the trail. Having made the decision to stay another night we were able to hike to the halfway point in Hanakoa Valley.
We trekked at the same slow pace of 1 mile per hour, hiking for five hours before getting to the halfway point. While not as spectacular as Kalalau, Hanakoa valley was beautiful in its own right. The campsite we set upon a river with a water fall, and we repeated the process from the day before reviving our tired bodies with a shockingly cold and refreshing waterfall shower. Exhausted we went to sleep as soon as night fell. The next day the only thought and goal was to get the hell off the trail. Critically low on food and energy we started early taking many rest breaks as the final day was when the mental and physical exhaustion was undeniable. When we did stop for food every bit was calculated and the remainder of the canned chicken tasted better than any other time in memory. As the trek wore on every uphill felt like a mountain, while every stream felt like a river. The spring in our steps were long gone. The picture perfect views that only two days before left us in awe and wonder were now simply numbers of ridges to get through to finish the trial. Maintaining our pace of 1 mile per hour we finished the trial in 5 hours. Grateful sweaty, and exhausted we set out to find food. Stopping for Acai bowls and Thai food for Ryan we could feel the energy flowing back into our bodies. Within an hour we stopped again at my bidding for more food. This time a place called Chicken in a Barrel, that was surprisingly some of the best smoked chicken either of us had ever had. Afterwards finding a beach shower to travel back to Big Island clean. Cutting it very close just like the departing flight we were again lucky to make it onto the flight. Exhausted but feeling accomplished we reflected on the trip proud of what we had experienced together and grateful for the new connections made.
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